I may not have stressed that enough in the podcast, hope I did though. It is good to know that The Whiz will not adopt Battlefront’s ruling on this matter for any events that The Whiz hosts. Your store is a fantastic store for the historical gamer and easily accessed on Rte 9 East.

However, I don’t think we can say one way or another what Battlefront’s plans are regarding enforcement of this policy and non-Battlefront events. At least, not until they publicly clarify their position…and even then.

Not all that long ago they continued their long history of condoning, stating, and publicizing that players could use models by other companies at official Flames of War events run Battlefront. They did that even at a point when they had to (my presumption) know internally that they would be changing their position.

They did not have to come out with the announcement prematurely, but they didn’t have to publicly condone the use of non-Battlefront models. They could have remained silent.

Flames of War is their game and they can do with it as they wish. The issue is relatively minor until you look at the larger scheme and see that this is indicative of a wider plan.

The days are early yet and we have to wait to see how Battlefront will enforce this and what sort of trickle down impact occurs with local events/stores/clubs/etc across the globe.

It is good to know that The Whiz is a refuge for those wishing to use their non-Battlefront models in Flames of War events. Other stores may adopt Battlefront’s ruling, I don’t know of any, but I’m glad to know The Whiz is not.

Chris, any time you’d like to leave a voicemail with your thoughts on any subject I’d gladly air them on the podcast. Head over to Leave Wargaming Recon a Voicemail to do so. Or, Chris, you have my cell number. Feel free to leave a voicemail on my phone and I’ll transfer it over.

I appreciate your comments. You raise important issues that all people, not just those bashing Battlefront, need to consider.

I’m ashamed to admit it but that promo took over 2 hours for me to create. Not sure that I’m the king of anything. Very happy you liked the clips.

This idea floated in my head for awhile. Thankfully I found the time to bring it to reality.

Not bad, like the clips. You are the king of editors for sure. Sorry we did not get around to making one for you. Life got in the way.

Cort N

You are lucky because of where you live. All you have to do is go through a few graveyards. I like the old Quincy one which is very near the T station in Quincy center.

Cort N

They look good. How are they to paint?

Cort N

What is the climate in your colonies? maybe some Cocoa plantations?

Cort N

The plan is to use my Perry AWI figures for this. I painted them differently enough anyway that they could represent one of my make believe colonies. They do have odd-colored equipment such as green canteens and so forth. Acquiring and putting new models onto the field would pose a problem for other projects. SAGA has my interest, just think of the one day campaigns we could hold, and I’d rather get new figures for that (in addition to Black Powder stuff) than another set of AWI right now. Down the road I could see myself repainting my AWI for the Dedhampton Revolution, or just adopting those colors for one of the protagonists.

A uniform creator would be cool to find. The maker of Hexographer has a coat of arms creator, which could be handy for my purpose. They don’t have a flag maker…maybe I’ll suggest that to them.

I agree with all your points. Take it slow. One step at a time. You can have some King Philip’s War action. A small set of event card could be used to note external problems in Europe. Are you going to used your AWI figures as stand-ins or will you start generating total new uniforms etc.?

Cort N

The powerbrokers on the map are more than enough for me to handle on my own at this point. Using the American Rev (AWI to shorten it from now on) as a guideline it would be possible to include a version of the Canadian territories, France, Prussia, and the Native Americans. It also would be possible to include other colonies. I think that I’d shy away from 13 colonies. Altering the number would allow for some colonies to be blended together creating a unique and interesting mix. Multiple colonies/nations could even be created based on the real counterparts. Why not have 3 or 4 nations based on the United Kingdom instead of just Dedhampton?

If others wish to participate in this imagi-nation campaign, I’d be happy to have them. But, I don’t think I’d want too many at first because the book-keeping would become unwieldy. The map making would also be in my portfolio. As exciting as it is to create a nation, it is also time consuming.

Without full-fledged 3rd parties as it were, versions of France or whatnot, I could still make a call as GM/Umpire for special events that include a France. Maybe France, or whatever I call it in the Dedhampton Revolution, will send an expeditionary force to investigate the happenings in Dedhampton’s colonies. There could also be such things as loans, trade, etc.

Part of me thinks that the more detailed this becomes, the better it would be for someone to be the Monopoly banker as it were tabulating income, expenses, and so forth. Maybe that will end up being me, which I’d actually enjoy, while I helm a smaller nation. It is hard to say at this point.

Are we dealing with 18th century Tech? How will you handle other major powers, or are you excluding them?

Cort N

Welcome aboard!

(And Hexographer looks very interesting too — I’ll give it a go myself.)

Had a great time running Hangman’s Creek and am looking forward to next year. I have a good idea for a scenario to run…gonna need a HUGE table, or do it in 10mm…

Halfway through I noticed how hoarse my voice was from talking so loudly. I guess we need mics and speakers for next year. :)

The con was even better this, my second, time around. I’m sure that next year will be even more enjoyable for me. I’m glad that you enjoyed reading my lengthy write-up.

Adrian’s photos are great. You have to consider the conditions he was working under. Unfortunately, No Winny the Poo. I am still sorry that I was so deaf as a stump.

Cort N

Sorry, I was not as much help as I should have been. I really am deaf as a stump. Age is finally catching up to me. I could only hear every other word. It was a good game though. the players seemed to be enjoying themselves.

Cort

And yes that was some unreal dice rolling….I’m glad you documented it because no one I normally play with will EVER believe it.

I also agree that the scenario could use a bit of a tweak in favor of the Japanese…hard to really tell with the unreal success of the American combat air patrols.

It was a pleasure to get to game with you
bob yates

Cort N

Cort N

I want to know how many I neet to pay for Warhammer 40000??

Sorry to hear the news. My condolences. Now the time for family.

Cort N

Found the Computer game that I thought was interesting. It is Sid Meier’s Gettysburg and Sid Meier’s Antietam. Can get it for about $30 or so bundled together. It is a bit old 1990′s I think.

Cort N

To get the ball rolling, Civil War BOARDGAME which I still love after all these years is Terrible Swift Sword by SPI. Way out of print, but still the best. I will look for computer games, but I never really played many. There was one once. I will look for it.

Cort N

You should interview him for your podcast.

Though Black Powder is intriguing. Not only for ACW, but I’m also trying to find a Samurai set of rules. There are some that say the earliest BP army rules may work. Though many are leaning toward using Hail Ceasar between those two rule sets.

Other than those issues, I had a good time and will do it again. I got lots of good tips from other GMs and by watching how others do things.

Good luck and keep us up on how it’s going.

Here’s the blog entry summing up the game. And you can see other posts of my work leading up to it.

http://itineranthobbyist.blogspot.com/2011/11/first-pics-from-con-game.html

I did notice that your post was quiet old. I posted a reply with serious doubts as to whether I would get a response. I was pleasantly surprised. Thanks for your help trying to figure out how the rain squalls were made and thanks for the link. I will definitely check it out.

I would not play this fleet today with the many other options available. But, the basic premise remains for the build. A submarine centric force with support can, when you roll those 6s, make a large impact.

Even if a ship has Torpedo Defense the ship continues to take damage. It may only take 50% of your torpedo’s damage. But, that is damage, which is not subject to any checks with Armor values. It goes straight to the hull.

That storm squall was originally posted on the Axis & Allies ForuMINI. Unfortunately I do not know how it was made. My best guess is that a base, maybe thin card or plastic, was created. The vertical sheet of rain was probably made with thin card that was cut, and painted, as it appears in the picture. A shelf is placed on top and then cotton balls are probably stretched out and glued on top.

Be sure to check on eBay, or the Axis & Allies ForuMINI, before trying to make this on your own. Many intrepid hobbyists have created this sort of thing and you can buy fantastic items at low prices. There’s a few eBay sellers who sell customized objective markers that look like sinking ships and planes (they use actual game pieces). Simply fantastic stuff. So, look around and see if you can find something that you like. Alternatively, the ForuMINI is a great place to ask if someone will make something like this for you. The people there are amazing and trustworthy.

If you are interested in War at Sea then maybe you would enjoy the other War at Sea blog posts. Clicking that link will connect you to all of the War at Sea posts.

Thanks for your comment!

*Henry should have given notification sooner that the magazine may shut down.
*Henry should have realized the magazine would close in enough time to stop taking subscription orders.
*Henry should have placed Battlegames first instead of his book and other projects (art design, editing, etc).
*Henry should make restitution to subscribers.

I’ve told Henry of my support for him and he has gotten in touch with me thanking me for my support. He hasn’t remarked about the negative commentary other than to say that there are people on TMP who support him and are doing so vociferously.

Neil Shuck, of Meeples & Miniatures fame, made a post discussing this epic news. In his post he announced that Henry will be a guest on M&M to discuss the issue. Neil beat me to the punch. More information will surely come out then.

It seems very wise of Henry to communicate in private with subscribers and well-wishers instead of posting on internet message boards or blogs. The company’s affairs need to get in order, plans need to be drawn up, and he needs to transition away from this life he’s led for over six years.

I don’t have a crystal ball telling me the whys and wherefores but I want to speculate, and that is all it is, on the three categories of complaints.

Henry should have given notification sooner that the magazine may shut down
Issue 15, way back in 2008, carried a “warning” if you wish to call it that. The editorial stated “My ability to keep Battlegames at this new and beefier size is dependent on….the continued support of the advertisers….and your response to those advertisements”

That same issue announced an increase in the cover price because of rising overheads and the magazine being “a very small minnow in this vast economic sea.”

Issue 16′s editorial touched on this issue when it stated “…this issue has fewer pages than last time, but that is purely because the massive increase in advertising that we saw int he previous, pre-Christmas issue, has subsided again, like the waves receding on the beach.”

If those remarks are not a sufficient warning, then I don’t know what is. Did Henry need to use size 72 bold red text on the cover of each issue saying “WITHOUT SUFFICIENT ADVERTISERS BATTLEGAMES GOES BUST”…..

I just don’t understand people who say Henry didn’t give sufficient notice of the magazine coming to an end. The announcement was unexpected. There’s no doubt in that. But, if we look carefully we can see that signs exist all around. Simply take a look at the publishing industry and it is apparent that print publications are suffering.

Henry should have realized the magazine would close in enough time to stop taking subscription orders

My expectation is that Henry had a feeling the magazine would need to close. He probably was aware of that awhile back. But, my guess is Henry became aware of the problem and then spent the remaining time exhausting every possibility to keep the magazine afloat.

One of those measures would be keeping subscription orders open for as long as he did. In hindsight it is easy to opine that Henry should have closed subscriptions as soon as he realized there was no saving the magazine in its current form. The possibility existed, however, that keeping subscription orders open could result in the magazine staying afloat.

Henry should have placed Battlegames first instead of his book and other projects (art design, editing, etc).

Without knowing the finances of Battlegames Ltd. there is no way to know whether Henry’s other projects fiscally added to or took away from the magazine. Again, my presumption is that Henry used his varied talents on a variety of paying jobs in the hope that the income from those other projects would allow the magazine to stay in publication.

In his notice on the magazine closing he notes that he has been subsidizing the magazine for a long time. If the magazine wasn’t paying for itself, or providing enough to cover Henry’s company and personal bills, then his taking on side jobs makes perfect sense. Designing box art for Perry Miniatures, editing Mr. Grant’s book, publishing his own Wargaming Compendium. All of these provide added income thereby offsetting expenses for publishing the magazine.

Henry wasn’t placing his other projects before Battlegames and its subscribers. He was, in my estimation, doing other projects to enable Battlegames and it subscribers staying in first place.

Henry should make restitution to subscribers.

This comment hasn’t been made as often as some of the others. The people who have made this comment clearly did not spend sufficient time to comprehend Henry’s notice. His notice to subscribers does state that he does not have the funds to make monetary refunds to the subscribers. BUT, and this is the important bit. He outlines four ways subscribers can receive product in lieu of money.

Henry offers:

” *Equivalent value in paper copies of previous issues or the Table Top Teasers (issues 1-3 sold out, remainder subject to availability)
*Equivalent value in PDF issues, either as downloads or on CD
*Equivalent value in digital subscription if viable
*You can, of course, decide to waive your outstanding subscription if you wish.”

When a company, such as a limited liability corporation, folds it does not necessarily need to provide financial restitution to all creditors. There are certain rules to this, which I am no expert on, but my belief is that magazine subscribers would fall below financial institutions, printers, paper suppliers, etc. Eventually the money is gone and creditors need to take their fill from other holdings such as product and materials.

Henry is trying to do the right thing by allowing subscribers to receive paper copies of past issues, digital copies, or a digital subscription if the magazine continues. Some people have said that Henry making restitution is “the principle” and not any need for the money they are out.

The principle is that instead of saying “screw you” to subscribers Henry is instead making good by providing product. The alternative could very well be that Battlegames Ltd. doesn’t NEED to give ANYTHING to subscribers. I think Henry’s actions yet again prove him to be a gentleman of the highest degree with impeccable character and honor.

If you’re a person who is all about “me me me” “take take take” then think of it this way. What is better? Getting NOTHING. Getting product.

I applaud Henry for trying to do the right thing, for notifying customers of the problem and the reasons behind it, and for trying to work with subscribers to create a plan for the future.

Battlegames Magazine is one of the best gaming magazines I have ever read. I am proud to be a subscriber. My hope is that it will continue as a digital subscription magazine, which I will gladly subscribe to.

Maybe digital publications are not your thing. But, as Cort N. taught me this weekend we can always print out and staple the digital file if we really “need” to physically hold it. I’m happy enough reading Battlegames on a tablet computer or ereader.

Cort N

I wish Mr. Hyde all the best in his future endeavors.

Regarding Army Painter: I have a can of Dark Tone myself, but had never really got the hang of it – until I had an accident with white primer which almost ruined a whole box of Perry plastics. There I had about 40 models just for a big trial of AP, and I tried my hand on techniques as seen on Dave Imrie’s blog (http://saxondog.blogspot.com/).
It worked out surprisingly well and was, at least in my measurements, quite fast. I think it’s all about control, so I would heartly recommend to you to try brushing the AP onto the model. (Buy some cheap brushes and don’t worry too much about cleaning them – they will easily last for a couple of sessions, i.e. using the AP on dozens if not hundreds of models.) Brushing makes for a much thinner coat, and you can vary the amount of AP on certain parts of the miniature. Such a coat also takes only half the time to dry.
In my opinion, ‘dipped’ models should always be retouched. Of course, that’s spending more time on them, but it’s absolutely worth the effort. Just add a few highlights with the original base colours, especially on the face, and it will look so much better! Here you can find part of my results: http://lead-mountain.blogspot.com/2011/08/narrow-escape.html
Personally, I won’t use AP exclusively, for I enjoy old-fashioned painting too much. However, for getting the job done and a lot of models on the table it’s just great. Keep trying!

Cheers
Tilman

Having two speakers does seem to be the winning combination. Of course it is also tricky. It requires finding people who are passionate about the same issue and have the right chemistry. The easier, tricky, things are finding someone with the available time to record on a regular schedule.

Guests are fantastic if they’re the right guest. Henry Hyde, Neil Shuck, Steven MacLauchlan, and Bill Dettmers are people who energize the conversation. They tend to be in high demand (three of them have their own shows and the last runs a highly successful gaming vendor) making scheduling difficult.

Cort N

KIDDING KIDDING…calm down :P

As usual a lot of fun. Yah, My daughter was rolling. Rolling bad! Notice that I left her at home last time. I have a suggestion for next time. Increase the staff for the Confederates to 9. Should make them faster and a little more responsive. I, also, think it would be more historical considering the scenario situation.

Cort N

Looking forward to 11/5; hopefully we’ll have some new players.

I like the look. Do you think that you have to use lighter shades when using the dip?

Cort N

Looks pretty good to me. I probable will stick to my Futura floor wax and India ink mix for a while. it is acrylic. Better to have around with the kids, plus it is a little cheaper. It comes out shine too, but I hit it with dull coat. Problem with it is ink to wax ratios. I have poor quality control, HA!

Cort

If you dip your models before bed they should be dry by the time you get home from work. How’s that for an easy rule of thumb?

On reading the article, again, I realize that I never gave my thoughts on the final product.

I really like that the Quick Shade both adds a depth and definition to the model while sealing it at the same time. That saves the long step of gloss varnishing the piece. But, I didn’t achieve as much depth as I would have liked.

The horse looks infinitely better after being dipped than it does after I base coated it. There’s no doubt about that. Even considering that I am left wondering why it doesn’t look as good as other pieces I’ve seen dipped into Quick Shade. I may dip it a second time to see if better shading will result. If that doesn’t work then maybe I do need the Dark Tone for my horses.

This was my first time using the product so I could be doing something wrong. Or, maybe my color palette doesn’t let the product truly shine (pun intended). Actually, that raises another issue. Once dry your model will be shiny. Extremely SHINY!

If shiny isn’t your thing, it isn’t mine, you need to spray on a matte varnish. Do not. I repeat DO NOT use GW’s Purity Seal. It will turn your model cloudy and other than stripping the paint off there is NO WAY you can save the model.

If you use GW’s Purity Seal you may as well toss the model. You’ve been given fair warning. Instead, please use Testor’s Dullcote. It is a FANTASTIC product in a small can. Any great hobby shop should have it or should be able to get it for you. If they can’t, for whatever reason, then check your local craft store (Michael’s, AC Moore, Joann Fabrics) or box store (Target, Walmart).

Luckily, I didn’t get any of the Quick Shade on my clothes (or hair). The Ultrabrush is cheap enough to make it affordable to use it for a bunch of models and then dump it when it is no longer usable.

A plus of actually dipping models into this product instead of painting the product onto the models is easier cleanup.

“The Army Painter” QUICK-SHADE is spectacular shading and varnishing in one! You will achieve stunning shading effects extremely fast with just one dip, while the varnish protects your miniatures from the wear and tear of the battlefield. CONTAINS: Naptha (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy, C9-12 – isoalkanes, C6-19 – fatty acids, cobalt salts, 2-Butanone oxime. Flammable. Repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking. If swallowed seek medical advice immediately and show this container or label.Keep out of the reach of children.

So, I’d keep it away from your kids but you would have no problem using this.

cort n

Cort

A trip to The Whiz yielded a Testor’s detail brush for $1.29 and an Army Painter base coating brush for $3.99.

Anything larger than a #2 seems almost too big for painting 28mm (or smaller) figures.

Sizes 0, 1, 2, 4, 6 12

I used to use all the 000000 etcs in hte past, but my eyes have not up to that fine a work.

Cort N

For paints, I preferr Winsor Newton Artist grade and thin them down with water. They have good pigment density which helps when watering them down.

I also use a sheet of glass for a pallete. I Clean it with a simple window scrapper.

Cort N

Have you tried the Testors?

Previously I bought a scroll work brush intending it for detail. You hit the nail on the head. It was very long bristled and wispy.

No one seems to make the exact brush I want. One with a very fine point, short bristled and stiff. All the fine detail brushes seem to be long bristled and wispy. They suck. IMHO.

I am working on the woods and will work on the streams tomorrow. I just do not have any time to make hills. There is a lot of drying steps to making the streams.

Cort

Just mounted and based the 5 brigader generals and 1 divisional command stand for both sides.

We should get a division on each side with three brigades in each. 3 to 4 Regiments per brigade.

Just got the rules and am reading now.

Jonathan – 15mm is the way to go. Smaller foot print means cheaper prices, less space used, and bigger battles. I still have a pile of unpainted 15mm civil war. Just need an good nugde to start painting them again. Just do not want to upset Adrian by loosing focus on AWI.

Cort N

Union
9,480 Infantry
600 Cavalry
1,080 Artillerymen

Rebels
9,360 Infantry
600 Cavalry
1,080 Artillerymen

That’s a LOT of people.

So, Cort does this mean you are our go to guy for 15mm?

Inventory
Union
Infantry -79, 4 fig stands
Cavalry – 10, 2 fig stands
Artillery – 9 guns

Confederates
Infantry – 78, 4 fig stands
Cavalry – 10, 2 fig stands
Artillery – 9 guns

At 1 figure equaling 30 men, 16 figure regiments equal 480 men. Typical for 1863 Gettysburg period.

houses – 8 (Log Cabins, Houses, and a rail center)
Streams – about six feet(I will make more)
Fencing and rock walls

Woods I will look at this weekend. Mice may have moved in.
Do we need bridges?

Cort

The fourth paragraph details how the changing of face works. Did you notice that by changing face the unit automatically becomes Disordered. So they suffer the -1 for attacks (YIKES only hitting on 5 and 6), can’t do the initiative or other types of moves, AND they get a -1 on Break Tests.

So if Unit A is charged in the flank by Unit Z. After combat is resolved both units are stuck in for another turn. Unit A reforms to face Unit Z. This round they end up sucking more cause they still only hit on 5 or 6 (same as when they were being attacked in the flank) but now they’re getting at least a -1 on the Break Test and if they’ve reached Excess Casualties things become nasty.

Imagine losing combat, being disordered, having 1 more than your stamina (plausible) and then taking a break test at -2. Hope you roll high cause that 6 you rolled now means you’re fleeing potentially taking any units that supported you with you.

Whereas if you don’t reform you’d only be at -1 to the break test (from the 1 excess casualty) and the 6 now changes into a 5 meaning you just back up 12 inches (or whatever the case may be). That’s not too terrible…even with being disordered after the move.

It is kind of 6 of one, half a dozen of the other but I almost would prefer not reforming because of the danger it inflicts with the break test. This is all moot anyone because the unit MUST reform (unless we house rule this or something) because the rules say it happens automatically.

Oh the psychological dangers of being attacked in the flank or rear.

John C has the FoW river set which he’d probably be willing to let us borrow. Roads might be a problem, but we can fake it. I have some pieces that will serve for the cornfields and we can use the fences Cort has even though the scale is off. No biggie really.

Grats to both winners!

2 Hills (1 with some woods)
1 Woods
2 Corn Fields
1 Town
1 Camp
1 Gun Foundry
River
Roads
Farm

I think Cort has some river sections he made that might be usable. I have felt in various colors/sizes that would make good corn fields, hills, and woods. BG should have woods and hills but the scale may be wrong.

That leaves 15mm buildings. Adrian you have some WWII buildings you use in FoW. Could those in for a town or a farm?

I think given that the models are 15mm, we could do it on one 4×6 table, halving movement and shooting distances. But Cort has a lot of figures, so we could potentially use the 24-30 figure ‘normal’ sized units of the rule book, in which case we might want a bigger table. Will have to look at that.

Last night I painted but basecoated some Dystopian Wars. I think I could get the Dystopian Wars stuff I have done in a week or two and that would clear that project from my list in its entirety.

My question is, how is the term “engaged” being used. Is it being used to signify a unit in hand to hand combat or is it being used to include units that are supporting the hand to hand combat?

I would take it to mean a unit that is touching bases for hand to hand combat. That would mean the first time it came up my reformation was allowed. AND that in Sunday’s game the Americans should have reformed against me. May have made a difference but not sure how much of one.

At that point it really was a foregone conclusion. They should have withdrew from the field to preserve the unit’s integrity and strength.

My lobsterbacks…I mean redcoats…erm soldiers yeah that’s it my soldiers desired those cows. A shame they weren’t speedy enough to get them. Still, a minor victory is still a victory. Right?

Will look at the scenario in the back of the book. ACW sounds good to me. How do we need to alter the rules for 15mm? Is that a half distance thing? Want to play on two 4×6 like on Sunday?

Hopefully more people will join us. We could do 2v2 or 3v3 etc. Sounds like fun to me. Care to make a list of terrain we need?

Jon, I reread the rulebook last night and finally came up with an answer to the question that has come up twice so far: can a unit that is engaged in hand to hand through its flank or rear turn to face the enemy unit?

The answer is, if it survives the first round of combat, and is only engaged by ONE enemy unit, then yes, it can change facing to face the enemy unit if it has room to do so. If it is engaged by 2 or more enemy units, it is not allowed to change face.

I think the next game we should play if folks are interested is the “Daybreak at Hangman’s Creek” scenario in the back of the rulebook. Cort has enough 15mm ACW figures to support the scenario and we should be able to get enough terrain scraped up to do it.

Many thanks to everyone for entering and to the sponsors for providing prizes.

The game really was a lot of fun.

@Drew I strongly suggest buying models first and waiting on the rulebook. Enough of us own it that you can look up what you need. Plus, the quick reference sheets coupled with playing the game a few times should give a decent foundation for how to play.

If you get curious about models to purchase please read Black Powder Fog of War. In particular read the e-mail Henry Hyde wrote me that I quote in the article.

Cort has great suggestions on where to get models on the cheap. One other thing to consider is there’s enough of us playing with a variety of forces that you can play with us using one of the forces until you decide what you want to get.

@Cort YAY! If only there was a way to tell the Perrys and the Warlord guys about this. I’m glad you’re getting the book. It is a nice resource to have on the shelf.

Playing on a single 4×6 is nice, with the amended rules of halving distances, but I think I like two 4×6 tables pushed together better. Doing that definitely yearns for more models to put onto the table.

I’m looking forward to the ACW scenario to use your extensive collection of those models.

@Gordon I’m glad you liked it. Am hoping to get a writeup of the battle for here. Will share a link with the listserv too when completed.

It felt weird playing as British. There must have been something unnatural with my being a loyalist because my rolling S-U-C-K-E-D. When did the Americans get jetpacks to race across the board and grab those cows?

As soon as my order comes in, I will start to paint. Hopefully, I can field two additional French battalions and some British/Tories. Must get more minis to fill that board. One of these game we may actually have a reserve.

Cort N

I am doing the post-digitization part of this project, which includes: cleaning up the images, resizing them, uploading them to the blog, and adding them to this page.

I’m intending to keep these on the blog for a week before I release them to others to use. When I do release these the first place to get them will be the Axis & Allies ForuMINI (as of 9/5/11).

Please remember that everything on this blog (and in my podcast) is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 United States License.

We hope to begin releasing the scans soon.

Thanks for the work done

Axel

The Boston Trained Bands is running an American Revolution game depicting the Battle of Chelsea Creek (read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Chelsea_Creek) and using Warlord Games’ Black Powder rules. The Battle of Chelsea Creek will take start at 1pm on Sunday, September 11, 2011.

Participants are asked to register for this FREE game. Please e-mail Chase Laquidara at chaselaq@gmail.com OR you can register via the Facebook Event: The Battle of Chelsea Creek by the Boston Trained Bands.

Please bring your own dice (d6 only, no others needed) and tape measure. All other gaming materials are provided by the Boston Trained Bands and by Battleground Games & Hobbies.

If you ever wanted to try Black Powder, like the American Revolution, or just enjoy a well run and fun game then you should play in this.

thank u

Seriously though, as I said when we spoke earlier, they are some beautiful models, and you are doing them justice with the way you are painting them. Some of them look a little clean though, are you planning on dirtying them up a bit with a dry brushing/inking? Maybe the Army Builder (I hope I am getting that right) can of wash I know you have/had?

Thanks for double checking the rules. You are right that it could have, and probably would, have made a difference. I wouldn’t have taken any more casualties from Cort but my attacks would have suffered that -1 mod from being flanked.

Actually, maybe the only part that needs to be replayed is my attacks (I can roll the dice online!) with the -1 mod. Hmm, when I have time today I’ll do that and post the results. D&D has a good online dice rolling app at the Wizard’s site.

Also, when the Cort’s unit in HtoH combat broke, the other unit was obliged to take a break test as well since it was supporting. I knew that, but forgot.

We have made contact with the enemy. Colonel Hawking and Lt Colonel Smyth ran their troops doggedly to contact the rebels. They underestimated their foe. Their men where tired and exhausted in such a dizzying display of speed. Colonel Hawking is being sent home to explain his failure to the home secretary. Lt Colonel Smyth is being re assigned to the Jamaica garrison.

I am planning placing a order today for some French. I will buy another battalion of british line to round out my brigade to three battalions.

Cort N

One can’t help but wonder how many column inches would have been devoted to the Battle of Abington if the colonials had been paddled and sent packing… :D

I’m looking forward to the next game. The grenadier regiment is on the painting table. (Oh, who am I kidding? It’s the kitchen table…) Hopefully they’ll be done by then.

La Battaile de…

Albuera
Talavera
Auerstaedt
Eylau
Ligny
Quatre Bras
Lutzen (a new entry in the line, with revised base rules)

I think that’s all…the editions I have are from the 80′s/90′s after Clash of Arms acquired the Marshal Enterprises line.

Cort N

Anyway, that has nothing to do with anything. To face off against you I have…nothing. One regiment of musketeers is all. A regiment of grenadiers and an artillery battery arrived today but they are still in their transports. So I suppose now is the time for you to strike. It’s likely your only chance for victory.

This might be trying too hard to provide cover for my curious paint scheme. But, it might be a good melting together of Henry Hyde’s fictional countries and my desire to play American Revolutionary battles. Another plus is I can try to rope my wife to lend her creative talents to assist me (she writes beautiful poetry) in breathing life into my models.

She’s already helped to pick which sculpts of the Perry command squad I’ll use. And….big surprise. She’s going to be a guest on my show to talk about being married to a gamer. :)

Cort N

Before getting into anything pertaining to historicals I hesitated. As Henry later said there would be people who would count buttons, check to see which year and unit is depicted, and verify the colors used for accuracy. This will be peculiar considering that I majored in politics and history in college (focusing on Colonial Northeast American history). But, I’m not one who cares about depicting forces in a historically accurate light.

Using historically accurate miniatures for such things as education, review, and examination are noble pursuits. Under those circumstances I would strive to push my mediocre skills to their limits in an effort to produce accurate looking models.

The Black Powder game, for me, is just that. That belief allows me greater freedom. There are limits to how far astray I will go. For example, you won’t see me giving people polkadots (did that for a GW Fenbeast many moons ago) or metallic pants.

When the project began, woah back in March, I set five guidelines.

1) Paint 3 distinct colors on each figure
2) Strive to be historically accurate but don’t let that stifle my creativity
3) Base each figure using flock and some Woodland Scenics products but don’t go crazy on the basing
4) Quickly and neatly paint each figure to a gaming standard where a regiment will look decent from 2-3 feet away.
5) Limit the number of coats, custom mixes, highlighting, drybrushing, and inking.

Of those five I have adhered to #1, #4, and #5. I believe #2, with a stretch, is true for my militia. As you kindly mention I stray a long distance away from historically accuracy with the Artillerymen. The third guideline has not been approached but adherence to it is expected.

Along the way the historical accuracy has become less and less important. Now it has fallen from my radar. That is sad but true.

It is hugely important to me that the army look cohesive. I am striving to achieve that through a limited palette and alternating color placement. The militia will continue with the hodgepodge approach. Any Continental soldiers will adhere to the scheme used on the Artillerymen.

My camera skills are completely absent. There is a picture of a JR Miniatures Colonial house that I really enjoy. All those pictures were taken, as you suggest, outside with indirect sunlight. Sadly, most of my photography, and I hesitate to call it that, are taken inside with my iPhone.

I know Drew already responded about the latest show. However, I want to thank you for your feedback. It is never easy to give less than positive feedback. Constructive comments better the show and they are greatly desired.

I appreciate Drew pushing himself to stay up to record with me. Bailey Records’ game soundtracks have been on my shelf for months. In fact, they were supposed to be reviewed on this show near the beginning of the year. Drew’s musical background would, I felt, provide a solid counter to my inexperience when reviewing the CDs. He isn’t a historical gamer preferring, instead, to play 40k and D&D.

Reviewing soundtracks for RPGs won’t be the norm for the show. I really enjoy the music and do listen to it while doing many things. At the end of the day they are roleplaying game soundtracks and not intended as background music for historical (or my historical fantasy) gaming. Something with fife and drums would better suit that. Looking at the download statistics it seems that listeners agree with you Tilman. There’s 53 downloads of Episode 61 compared to 92 downloads for Episode 60 (in the same time period Episode 60 had more downloads).

The next recording will feature an interview with Derek Lloyd, and Chase Laquidara, of Battleground Games & Hobbies. I expect it will be a lot of fun and very interesting.

I really appreciate all the comments from everyone. Don’t worry Tilman. I didn’t take it personally with the pictures. You have a blog to run and you own projects to work on. I am delighted people listen to my show and visit this blog at all.

Sorry about coming off as a bit cranky. It wasn’t my intention. I work the overnight shift and stayed up late (for me) to be able to help out. The day wound up a bit too warm to take a nap before the recording to be as fresh as possible. I promise to do my best not to record in too tired a state again in the future. I appreciate the feedback though! Live and learn.

Thanks again,
Drew

Sorry for having abrupted our last conversation when you turned up with pictures. That didn’t mean anything, honestly. Thus, switching over from there I post a comment here. First off, good to see you up and painting. That’s the spirit!

Then, and please don’t take it for nit-picking, I seem to have missed your initial thoughts on building these AWI forces. Are they meant to be an accurate representation of historical formations or do you allow yourself for some artistic license? I’m asking because of your choice of colours on the artillery crew’s uniforms and you citing Tarleton’s Quarter as an “inspiration”. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with painting fantasy uniforms – and maybe the idea of using a coherent colour scheme is due to having painted GW armies and the like before.

As said, nothing wrong with that. However, be prepared to encounter some people who are, let’s say, less forgiving in regards of historical armies. Apart from any detail or button-counting they could, for example, point out their confusion about the artillerymen’s leatherware being dyed green (which is, in fact, quite hard to achieve). For such cases you should have an answer at hand, something in the line of Henry Hyde’s alternative 18th century setting.

However, if that’s not what you’re after, I strongly recommend some reading (or asking) on the subject of uniforms. With Americans you have only a few limits in colouring, but there are some. You really don’t have to paint in all possible details, a basic paintjob in the right (i.e. accepted) colours is totally fine. For Contiental artillerymen that would be: blue coat, white vest, white breeches and socks (or, where applicable, white or brown trousers) and red cuffs and turnbacks; straps and belts should be white as well, whereas pouches and bayonet holders were usually made of black leather. That makes them very distinct on the battlefield, but artillerymen were a proud bunch after all. ;-)

Furthermore, you could achieve better pics quite easily: Just take your models outside. Avoid direct sun or flash light at all cost. Set your camera on close-up (mostly a flower icon) and provide some kind of stand (some books will do). Take as many photos as possible. Afterwards you can sort and probably enhance them with a free graphical programm. On the web a good picture is as important as a decent paintjob.

Finally, some notes on the latest podcast episode: I enjoyed the regular parts of “week in gaming” and “mailbag”. The theme wasn’t my cup of tea, since I find background music quite distracting. However, and it’s maybe just me, I missed some enthusiasm on side of your dialogue partner. He sounded rather disinterested and somewhat cranky for the most part. Perhaps that’s due to him being not completely sold on historical gaming yet?
Anyway, I still loved to hear from you again. Thanks for your effort!

Cheers
Tilman

Sounds like I’ll be facing an onslaught of redcoats and their allies. Hope the Americans can hold the line.

Cort

The next group I do will be British and I may include a small cavalry unit there.

As for basing, I’m thinking, as we said 16-18 figures for a normal sized unit. I will be going with 16, basing 4 figures each on 40mm square bases. The artillery is just one gun representing a battery, per the rules.

The Field Jaeger battalion I think will be a small sized, skirmish capable unit. Probably 12 figures in their fancy green and red coats.

I figured out that so far I have 2 Militia Regiments and 1 Artillery Battery. All told I have 30 Militia soldiers, 4 2/3 Command groups (Leader on foot, Musician, and Standard Bearer…one group is lacking a Leader), 3 Officers on horseback (to be used as army general), and 1 6pdr with 4 crew.

Moving forward I plan to get a cavalry regiment plus some Continental infantry to bolster my militia.

I have the following:

Le Bataille de – ..

La Moscowa
La Talavaera
La D’Auerstaedt
De Deutsch-Wagram

Man these babies are old. They are the old Marshall games from the 1770′s. I think that i have everything, but I am not sure. I maybe missing a piece here and there.

I also have Wellington’s Victory, but My brother mixed Quatre Bras in with it. I have to sort it out. I will bring them.

Cort N

Paul

1 RPG Adventure for either the Pathfinder or D&D 4th ed system
1 digital copy of Disposable Heroes Soldier Statix 4: Napoleonics
1 digital copy of Disposable Heroes American Revolution Statix 1

I’ll go on record in this public forum and state how hugely, incredibly annoying it is to me that it’s even a problem; 25mm shouldn’t exist. Or, if you prefer, 28mm shouldn’t exist. There’s no legitimate reason to have both scales, at least as far as I can tell.

I’ll have to bring some of my Clash of Arms games with me so you can check them out. They might be too scary for you, but if you’re interested in trying paper maps and cardboard, there aren’t any better tactical level Napoleonics games available.

Flattery will get you anywhere. Thank you for the complement. The Old Glory Minis suite my rather ancient method of painting which is to block in colors and douse with Futura Floor wax and India Ink.

On Napoleon’s Triumph, Yes I have not played it yet. The board is bigger than my table at home. I will re-read the rules for next Saturday. Have fun on the Salem!

Thanks again for the complements
Cort Naegelin

Cort N

While your suggested title is very appropriate, if I was a newcomer going through a list of podcasts, I wouldn’t bother to download one with a place name in it’s title. I would assume it was only of interest to gamers in the New England area.

But THE WARGAMES RECON PODCAST would be cool. :-)

ANDREW.

How about:

RUMOURS OF WAR.

It’s short, snappy, and summarizes the fact you are talking about wargaming, reviewing games, and interviewing figures from the industry.

All the best,

ANDREW MALCOLM.

Sorry, Pressed tab. How about New England Recon or Recci. Did I spell that right? Pertains to New England and Recon for gathering info. Lame?

Cort

You do know that in order to get to the artillery battery that you’ll have to get through a bunch of crackshot, but perhaps disorderly, militia? And then you can overrun the artillery and get fat off the land allowing my riflemen to create gaping holes in the craniums of your bratwurst-loving mercenaries. Pow-pow. :)

“Battleground Games & Hobbies. That is the local game store I play at, which has two locations (and may be working on a third).”
Really???

That is still a work in progress and those pictures WILL, if they’re not already, appear on this blog. They’ll be accompanied by a write-up, which takes a little doing.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwfgamecast/sets/72157626272483917/with/5578749662/ has all of my AWI figs that I’m working on. Or, they will soon be on there.

Anyway, keep up the good work.

Cheers
Tilman

Thank you for the kind words about the show. You’re the second person to tell me that they subscribe or purchased something as a result of this show. It is nice to know you’re happy with WSS. It is a great magazine, which I’m experiencing some technical difficulties of my own with. That’s most likely an issue with my own device so please don’t let it reflect on WSS.

If you wanted to send Jasper, or Guy, an e-mail telling them how you became a subscriber as a result of listening to my show that would be awesome. If you wanted to that is. I think it is important for companies to know of the impact from independent, and amateur, podcasters such as myself (and Neil Shuck and WWPD, etc). It comes in handy when they look at places to sponsor, or contests to sponsor, too.

Hope you’ll enjoy the next issue I’ll be releasing. My friend Drew joins me to talk about things gaming. A big show will be recorded at the end of this month when he and I jointly interview Derek Lloyd, owner, and Chase Laquidara, manager, of Battleground Games & Hobbies. That is the local game store I play at, which has two locations (and may be working on a third). Should be fun to peek behind the curtain of a successful game store.

Thank you for listening and thank you for your comment.

-Jonathan

Anyway, love the show and keep checking for updates regularly.

Cheers from overseas
Tilman

Here is a good place for flags. http://www.warflag.com

The price is right free.

I just got my British line. I thought that would be a safe bet at this point. I did not know what other people where ordering. I probably should have ordered French. If I ever finish painting them, I will order some continentals to balance thing out. 16 is the base unit?

I am presently planning on using Yellow or Blue for facings.

For basing, I was thinking of using 3/4″ Fender washers with a magnetic moving tray. This would give me the flexibility to build the unit to your specs. and use them for skirmish games too.

For the magnetic tray, I use business card magnets and balsa wood.

Does that make sense?

One initial complaint I have, which piggybacks onto your blog remark, is the difficulty I’m experiencing in trying to see all of the models available for sale. Perhaps a list, maybe with pictures, would be helpful.

I’m game to give them a try though.

Jim is a really nice guy and an expert on the AWI and 7 Years War. He lives near Chicago — drop him a line.
fife_drum_minis@yahoo.com
Prices: $1.80 per figure, sold as single figures + applicable postage

My only complaint is that a blog isn’t the ideal vehicle for a commercial range of figures!

What I would actually like to do is base each individual figure on its own thin metal magnetic 20mm x 20mm base and then stick 4 of these on a thin metal 40mm x 40mm base. This would give a lot of flexibility and would be especially useful for units that are able to go into skirmish order. I haven’t been able to find a supplier for anything like this though.

As for your desire to field a flock of cannons, keep in mind a.) they aren’t wonder weapons by any means, at least not in BP and b.) if infantry or cavalry touches them, they die.

As always Henry you keep me on the straight and narrow. I’m eternally grateful to you. But, you’re becoming used to that.

See http://www.buckstix.com/howitzer.htm

and http://www.public-domain-image.com/objects/slides/cannon-in-old-town-san-diego.jpg

and especially http://youtu.be/SbhSAyjeA74

Remember, it’s only antique examples that start to turn greenish because of verdigris — when new and looked after by their crews, those suckers shone!

I was considering Dwarven Bronze (or Tin Bitz) with perhaps an ink wash, I do like that Devlan Mud, for a quick and dirty (pun intended) barrel. The GW bases I picked up should be suitable for me. Adrian, I think you could use another source. Three packs of the Citadel Square Bases and one pack of the Citadel Round Bases are in my possession. Unfortunately, they are a tad expensive at $8.25 per bag. The bags do include:

Round Bases
20 25mm Round
5 40mm Round (monster)
1 60mm Round
5 Bike Bases

Square Bases
20 20mm Square
12 25mm Square
5 40mm Square (regiment)
5 Cavalry Bases

My thinking was the round would be good for characters, unit leaders, artillery and anything that doesn’t need to base up such as Regulars in skirmish order and Irregulars (mainly). The square bases are better for ranking up and so everyone else goes on them. Yes, the cavalry too.

Diane Sutherland’s article titled Meet the flockers has some great advice on making homemade flock, which is a little different than what you suggest Henry. It looks good but is a thicker and coarser consistency than the sand, which may produce a better result for the infantry.

I’m tempted to create a “cool” vignette style piece for unit leaders/army leader/artillery pieces using the Woodland Scenics field grass, lichen, and branches I have. The field grass takes longer to set and dry but produces a nice result. The lichen could be interesting and the branches would make nice logs for an impromptu defensive redoubt for those cannon. Not sure if it’ll happen but maybe. I still need to spray Dullcote on my latest 6 militia.

The consensus, so far, seems to be for me to finish my first infantry unit (to some degree) and then tackle the cannon. Horses didn’t come with this piece, it is AW101. So, suggestions for 28mm horses (at what I consider a reasonable price…coming from my GW background) are welcomed. The Perry options for horse and cannon, with limber, are 3pdr Butterfly or 3pdr (AWI 117 and 119 respectively) but not the 6pdr like I have. Or, I could go for AWI 128 (see http://www.perry-miniatures.com/images/aw/AW%20128.jpg), which costs almost $19 and I don’t really need another cannon…just the horses.

Despite the significantly higher price I’m planning on picking up some Wargames Foundry items. In particular I want to get http://www.thewarstore.com/media/ss_size2/FND-AWI1-1.jpg (it is out of stock, don’t know if/when it’ll ever be back in stock). That is my only option, so far, for an army general and for mounted unit leaders. http://www.perry-miniatures.com/images/aw47.jpg could be an option but they are British mounted officers. It may be too difficult to pretend they’re Americans.

http://www.thewarstore.com/media/ss_size2/FND-AWI2-5.jpg ($23.99) is tempting because I’m not sure how much I like the Perry’s Mounted Riflemen (http://www.thewarstore.com/media/ss_size2/aw36.jpg) and having mounted close combat could be useful.

Finally, http://www.thewarstore.com/media/ss_size2/FND-AWI4-7.jpg ($21.99) and http://www.thewarstore.com/media/ss_size2/FND-AWI4-8.jpg ($21.99) are of interest. Having actual Minuteman models would be awesome considering where I live. All of the Foundry stuff is nice but so much more than the other stuff the Perry’s are doing, which makes it difficult to justify the expense. Sadly, I haven’t come across any other more reasonably priced manufacturers that make the pieces I want (cavalry, army general and unit leaders all on horseback, and minutemen) that would fit in with the figures sculpted by the Perry Brothers.

Maybe one exists but I haven’t come across it yet. :(

If you can’t stand the idea of painting sand, then it’s simple: just mix wood glue, sand and green paint up together in an old tub or spray can lid and smear that over the base with an old brush or coffee stirrer. A light green or yellowish drybrush when it’s dry, job done. Add a few brown mud patches, rocks and tufts of grass if you feel like it.

Remember your cannon barrels are mostly polished bronze, which looks like brass. I find that the GW Shining Gold, followed by a wash of Devlan Mud, then highlighted with Burnished Gold, looks perfect.

See Giles Allison’s brilliant Tarleton’s Quarter blog for inspiration
http://gilesallison.blogspot.com/2011/02/american-artillery-6.html

I was wondering if you would be willing to host an article on 1/2400 WW2 ships which I now use with the War At Sea rules?

Specifically, I could showcase some of the models I’ve painted up, and provide hints on painting, transfers etc.

please let me know if it’s something you would be interested in.

Thanks

That cannon really tempts me and provides a great excuse to pick up more metallic paints. I have Boltgun Metal and I think Chainmail but am lacking the rest. Dwarf Bronze and Tin Bitz could be interesting choices. I did come across an intriguing article at Dakka Dakka on using washes to “stain” the metallic paints. Check it out at http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/235872.page

I have a strong love of cannons and may find myself so enraptured that I wish to field a plethora of the dang things. The downside is it requires assembly, nothing major, to field. I’m going to paint it before assembling to make it easy to reach all the internal areas.

Might I suggest the GW bases or just making your own out of plasticard? I bought a bunch of the GW bases from BG, which I intend to use. I may buy, or make, movement trays too. GF9 would be another option for bases, and movement trays.

Are you planning to base a unit at a time or the entire army in a go? Over the weekend Derek was working on a Orc & Goblin army for WFB. He based it a unit at a time using a big bag of sand he purchased from Home Depot. He keeps it in one of those 5 gallon buckets, used an old coffee mug to scoop up the substrate, “painted” on the white glue (he didn’t like the GW PVA, moved on to Elmer’s white glue but I’m a fan of wood glue if you can get it cheaply) to the base (I usually water mine down a little to ensure it gets everywhere), and then dipped the figure into the mug before shaking off the excess. I imagine he’ll paint the sand, which is not something I’d want to do.

I have 10 more Hessian musketeers laid out on the table to be prepped tonight. When they’re done I’ll have 16 painted, but not based. I ordered some 40mm x 40mm Renedra bases from the Warstore, but now find that the order is delayed since they’re out of stock. They weren’t listed as out of stock on the website when I ordered though (or obviously I wouldn’t have ordered them) so I’m more than a little put out with The Warstore at the moment.

No huge hurry I guess since the minis aren’t all painted yet anyway, but still…

After listening to it, I nipped along to my local W H Smiths newsagents, and bought the latest copies of WARGAMES ILLUSTRATED, MINIATURE WARGAMES, and WARGAMES, SOLDIERS & STRATEGY, and am thoroughly enjoy them all. :-)

August 6th, for our first annual Wargamers Flea Market and

Game Day. Browse tables filled with miniatures, books, board

games, maybe complete armies, even a vendor or two! Bring

some of your own to sell or to trade. The flea market will run from

9am-12:00 noon.

During the afternoon, join the MHWA for miniatures and board

games, starting at 1:00pm and running until 6:00pm. Check the

MHWA forum for more details as they become available,

http://www.mainewargamershq.lefora.com

Get Figures, Armies, Books, Games, Paints, Rules

Date: Saturday, August 6th, 2011

Times: 9-12noon Flea Market

1-6pm Gaming

6-7pm Club meeting, followed by dinner

in town, all are welcome

Location:United Lodge, 65 Baribeau Drive,

Brunswick, Maine

Costs: Free to attend, $10 for a display table for

the flea market

Contact: mainewargamershq@gmail.com

Date: Sunday July 3, 2011
Time: 10:00 am – 5:00 pm
Repeats: This event repeats every week.
Location: The Whiz on rt 9 in Westboro, MA
Notes: FREE (NO CHARGE) Open gaming

Location: ADLER HOBBY
Street: 96 Twiss Lane
City/State/Zip: Hollis NH 03049
http://www.adlerhobby.com

Malifaux, Board Games & Flames of War your also welcomed to come down to model and paint just get out of the house and do SOMETHING hobby related…we typical order pizza & subs (steak tip diner is my fav yum! ) by 6pm so be sure to get here before then if you want the “break bread” with us…lol

Also on this day:
1pm to 5pm every last sat of the month. We have gaming but also FOCUS on painting and Modeling in store a “sewing bee” for gamers if you will. Your invited to bring ANYTHING to paint and model we have a few supplies on hand, water basins and a few brushes you just bring your fav colors of paint, some glue and your models you’d be surprised how much gets done sitting at a table with others doing the same thing and sometimes we also learn from each other while we paint chat and crack a few jokes…good times, all you need to do if show up for 1pm.

Next Date: Saturday, July 30, 2011
Time: 1:00PM-5:00PM
Cost: free
Location: Adler Hobby 96 Twiss Lane Hollis, New Hampshire 03049

We have gaming, but also focus on painting and modeling in-store – a “sewing bee” for gamers, if you will.
You’re invited to bring anything to paint and model. We have a few supplies on hand, water basins and a few brushes. You just bring your favorite colors of paint, some glue, and your models. You’d be surprised how much gets done sitting at a table with others doing the same thing, and sometimes we also learn from each other while we paint, chat, and crack a few jokes…

Good times, all you need to do is show up for 1PM!

Courier is out of print. Mr. Bettie Finally got tired of herding cats, or he just wanted to retire. I hope your wife isn’t mad at me. Those mags have a little basement funk to them.

Cort

Shawn says, “I was just listening to the CWF interview with you regarding FoF and I wanted to share an important fact with you: More Europeans were involved in the development of Force on Force than Yanks. We had a bucket of Brits, including Rich Jones, and folks from Germany, Portugal, France, and Ireland. We went to great lengths to be as even-handed in our treatment of the subject as possible, both because that was the right thing to do according to our sense of integrity and because more than 50% of our customers hail from beyond our borders.

That trend holds true for our companion books, as well. The lead author of Road to Baghdad, Enduring Freedom, and the upcoming Fallujah and Mogadishu books, for instance, is Leigh Neville – a gent who hails from Australia. The lead author on Ambush Valley is Piers Brand – I specifically chose a non-American to write that book in hopes of offering something that differed from the normal “Ballad of the Green Berets” or “Platoon” extremes found among so many of us Yanks.

There’s not a book that we’ve done (or will do) that doesn’t owe at least half of its flavor to non-US contributors.

Please take this in the right way: I’m not ranting angrily at you, I’m just sharing this information with you because I thought you might find it an interesting and factual counterpoint to the assertion that our rules are “America-Centric” should you be confronted with it again.

Best wishes as always!

Shawn.”